An evocative Biretrograde Calendar from Roger Dubuis
The ambition of Roger Dubuis has been unwavering from the very beginning. Since 1995, this Geneva Maison has been pursuing the vision of its two co-founders to create timepieces that cannot be found anywhere else. This was true in the very first launch three decades ago, and now, after 30 years of a singular fine watchmaking journey, a new creation is unveiled that echoes that original dream – the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar
Like Roger’s Dubuis’ first timepiece released in 1996, this model is distinguished by a Biretrograde signature display. Familiar to the Maison, yet modernised in expressive style, the calendar is presented along with elegant heritage materials, a classically refined size, and the esteemed excellence of Poinçon de Genève certification. Mr. Roger Dubuis was a passionate creator of fine watchmaking, yet his approach was differentiated by the expressivity he brought to his designs. This distinction is perfectly illustrated in the Biretrograde display, which Roger particularly admired. Amongst his many career developments, this was the kind of individual style that captured his creativity, as well as his heart, as it enabled him to highlight the ingenious mechanics of a timepiece.
After evolving, simplifying, and modernising the retrograde system in the late 1980s alongside the talented watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, Roger used the patent when he opened his namesake Maison in 1995. To emphasise the expressivity, the patent was showcased as a biretrograde display on the face of the very first watch – and featured in conjunction with a chronograph. The Biretrograde system itself requires a complex harmony of cams, rakes, clicks, and springs, which enable the calendar’s hands to move gracefully along the semi-circle scales, and at the end of their cycle, return immediately to zero to begin their journey again.
In the new Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar, wearers can admire this dance of components as the watch keeps track of the current day and date via beautifully angled and skeletonised hands. At 40mm, this watch is typical of the refined sizes that Roger Dubuis produced in the 1990s. Furthermore, the slimmer case is crafted in 18K pink gold with a white mother-of-pearl dial. During the Maison’s early years in the 2000s, Roger Dubuis was one of the first watchmakers to use pink gold and mother-of-pearl in gentlemen’s watches, and these precious materials therefore have a close association with the manufacturer’s sophisticated and audacious spirit. In particular, the iridescence of the mother-of-pearl delivers a theatrical and eye-catching look. Around the wrist, these materials are complemented by a 3D calf-skin leather strap in brown featuring an interchangeable pink gold triple-folding clasp.
Roger Dubuis’ signature approach to the biretrograde display is certainly evident in this 2025 design. Just like their appearance in 1996, the scales are wide on the outside, and narrow towards the centre, giving them an expressive curvature and unique sense of ellipsis. This is not the only aesthetic code that the Maison has borrowed from the past. Other specific touches are also in keeping with the designs from Roger Dubuis’ heritage. The face is presented in a symmetrical style, as it was in 1996, with the Biretrograde scales balanced on each side. The Small Seconds counter at 6 o’clock is also neatly aligned with the stamp at 12 o’clock. The latter features the Biretrograde Calendar wording in the Maison’s historic font as well as the Geneva Seal emblem; and appears as it did in the Much More Biretrograde Calendar timepiece from the early 2000s. Another subtle tribute that celebrates the Maison’s 30th anniversary.
Behind the wondrous aesthetics of the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar, is the Calibre RD840. This automatic movement is engineered with 60 hours of power reserve, and through the sapphire crystal caseback, it reveals an inspired oscillating weight. Mirroring the style of the Maison’s very first oscillating weight in 1996, it has been further updated with its own modernised look. Here also, wearers can admire the mechanics inside and get a genuine sense of the meticulous detailing that has been rewarded with Poinçon de Genève certification.
For Mr. Roger Dubuis, Poinçon de Genève was an entire philosophy. A way of considering and approaching watchmaking that goes beyond just keeping time. It is a theory of aesthetics and performance, in which the quality of craftsmanship can be most profoundly measured. To reach the standard, every component in the Calibre RD840 has been decorated and polished by hand, guaranteeing an appearance that is pristine.
Finally, as a lasting tribute to the Roger Dubuis co-founders, one of their thought-provoking quotes appears on a ring beneath the sapphire glass. Written in a classic handwriting style, this sentence has appeared on the oscillating mass of past Maison timepieces, giving it another authentic connection to this year’s anniversary. “C’est une montre actuelle, inspirée mais pas soumise au passé, qui se projette dans un futur qui nous appartient.” In translation, “This is a watch of today, inspired but not restricted to the past, projected into a future that belongs to us.”
Officially unveiled at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar is a pure celebration of Roger Dubuis’ 30th anniversary. The construction makes a seamless link between the past and today, while transforming the Maison’s heritage into a timepiece of emblematic excellence and elegance.
