Bvlgari debuted at Watches & Wonders with an exhibition space that embodies its dual identity and Roman origins and DNA. While its Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon for men set a 10th world record for ultra-thin watchmaking confirming its status of icon of the 21st century as well as an unrivalled watchmaking expertise, the Serpenti Aeterna for the ladies reimagines the Maison’s iconic reptile in a bold, avant-garde jewellery creation
A breath of Italy at Watches & Wonders
Bvlgari presented exceptional timepieces while highlighting its dual expertise in fine jewellery and high watchmaking. Channelling Bvlgari’s deeply Roman soul, the exhibition space invited visitors to immerse themselves in the Maison’s Italian culture, distinctive elegance, and avant-garde creative vision – through the most beautiful marble hues and a blend of precious materials. The experience began at the façade, which featured elements of the Razionalista Roman architectural style, making an immediate impact.
Inside, seven curated showcases – inspired by “Beyond Time”, the definitive chronicle of the Maison’s horological history – guided visitors through the universe of Bvlgari. Each display, a chapter that told the story of an iconic creation. Archival photographs provided historical context for the most avant-garde pieces, creating a dialogue between past and present. In this curated setting, Bvlgari unveiled two significant new releases, two visions of time: the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon and the Serpenti Aeterna.
Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
Bvlgari’s new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is now the thinnest tourbillon watch ever. Measuring 40 mm in diameter and just 1.85 mm in thickness, it is powered by the BVF 900 tourbillon calibre. This manually wound mechanical movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and offers a 42-hour power reserve. Such specifications and the records they set showcase the exceptional prowess of the watchmakers and engineers at the Bvlgari Manufacture.
The hallmark of the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is its tungsten carbide main plate that houses the mechanical movement. The new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon features a bezel, case middle, and lugs crafted from microbead-frosted titanium, while the main plate is constructed from tungsten carbide. The two planar ‘crowns’ – each protruding ever so slightly from the side of the case, at left (8 o’clock) to wind the mechanism; and at right (3 o’clock) to set the time – are fashioned from stainless steel and circular-grained; likewise, the ratchet, adorned with engraved geometric decorations, is rendered in circular-grained steel.
For optimal legibility, the hour dial features rhodium-plated hour and minute hands set against a sand-blasted brass surface with an DLC anthracite coating – unlike its predecessors, the Octo Finissimo Ultra and Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, which were regulators with two decorrelated hour and minute dials. Perfectly complementing the watch, the integrated microbead-frosted titanium bracelet mirrors its ultra-thin aesthetic, measuring just 1.5mm thick – including the folding clasp.
A masterful demonstration of extreme finesse, the new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon showcases Bvlgari’s mastery of extreme thinness and represents another breakthrough in their innovative approach to watchmaking. The maison had to rethink not only traditional techniques but also how watches are designed and developed. Mobilising all the expertise of the Bvlgari Manufacture, this particularly complex project involved revisiting the traditional fundamentals of the profession to design a watch in two dimensions rather than three. This bold approach sparked fresh energy within Bvlgari’s teams, fostering unprecedented creative collaboration to tackle a challenge of this scale. Perfecting and rethinking techniques – such as returning to a two-hand display – added a deeply human touch to the entire endeavour.
To meet these challenges, Bvlgari’s R&D teams created new processes and techniques, securing eight specific patents covering innovations like the differential display, the integrated case middle and plate design, the bi-material case back, a new crystal mounting method, a novel barrel structure, the oscillator module, the modular construction, and the bracelet design.
Bvlgari’s pursuit of ultra-thinness began in 2014 with the hand-wound Octo Tourbillon. Since then, it has produced record-breaking innovations across multiple categories, including the world’s thinnest minute repeater (3.12mm in 2016), the Octo Finissimo Automatic (2.23mm in 2017), and the thinnest perpetual calendar ever (2.75mm in 2021), which earned the prestigious Aiguille d’Or at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG).
Launched in 2012, the Octo quickly became an iconic design in modern watchmaking. Just ten years after the debut of the Octo saga, the Octo Finissimo Ultra set an absolute record with a total thickness of just 1.8 mm. The launch was celebrated with style and joy in the heart of Rome, on the Piazza della Rotonda, in front of the Pantheon. The Octo Finissimo Ultra was then awarded the Prix de l’Audace (the Audacity Prize) at the GPHG. Eight patents have been registered on the Octo Finissimo Ultra since 2022. With the new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, Bvlgari continues its pursuit of finesse and refinement in every sense of the word.
Serpenti Aeterna
The year 2025, under the sign of the snake in the Chinese calendar, heralds a profound transformation for Serpenti. With Aeterna, Bvlgari brings the reptile back to life in exquisite high jewellery, conducive to sublime creativity. Diamonds illuminate the gold of the precious animal, whose new skin expresses more than ever the foundations of Bvlgari, its inimitable Italian style and its profoundly pioneering identity. The reinvented icon captures the rich heritage that precedes it and extends it into the future, free from fashion and time. The snake becomes a language in itself: fluid and free of the superfluous.
Since 1948, Serpenti has continually reinvented itself, embodying the essence of perpetual rebirth. It seduces, enchants, captivates, and inspires desire. As Tubogas, supple and sensually coiled around the wrist. As Infiniti, graphic and sculptural. As Seduttori, created for everyday elegance yet capable of housing an exceptional tourbillon (2020). As Misteriosi, the precious guardian of a technical feat: the Piccolissimo BVL 100 calibre – with its extremely reduced dimensions, a record in miniaturisation (2022). Now, Lady Solotempo, a fully in-house automatic calibre, beats at the heart of new interpretations of Seduttori and Tubogas, and another revelation of this milestone year 2025 – a tribute to the Serpent, reviving the rich tradition of mechanical watches for women.
Today, Aeterna pushes boundaries even further. Its design, far more than merely evoking the serpent, mirrors its very soul. Serpenti Aeterna doesn’t just define itself – it asserts its distinctive character in an elegantly refined bangle. Versatile by design, it effortlessly adapts to personal style and pairs seamlessly with other Bvlgari creations. This unprecedented design daringly wraps itself around the wrist thanks to an ingenious clasp mechanism. A truly exceptional piece, it demanded two years of development to achieve perfect aesthetic integration and comfort. The iconic hexagonal scales, a hallmark of past Serpenti designs, are subtly etched into the inner contour. Invisible from the outside, this sublimely crafted detail reinforces Aeterna’s intimate connection to Serpenti’s extraordinary heritage.
Bvlgari unveils Serpenti Aeterna in rose gold, adorned with diamonds, as well as a high-jewellery interpretation in fully pavé-set white gold. Precious gemstones illuminate the snow-set dial, extending along the spine to the very tip of the tail. On the white gold version, oversized gems create a striking three-dimensional effect, enhancing the object’s mesmerising volumes.
