MB&F unveils a Special Project
Founded in 2005, MB&F is the world’s first-ever horological concept laboratory. With over 20 remarkable calibres forming the base of the critically acclaimed Horological and Legacy Machines, MB&F is continuing to follow Founder and Creative Director Maximilian Büsser’s vision of creating 3-D kinetic art by deconstructing traditional watchmaking. After 15 years managing prestigious watch brands, Maximilian Büsser resigned from his Managing Director position at Harry Winston in 2005 to create MB&F – Maximilian Büsser & Friends – an artistic and micro-engineering laboratory dedicated to designing and crafting small series of radical concept watches by bringing together talented horological professionals.
In 2007, MB&F unveiled its first Horological Machine, HM1. HM1’s sculptured, three-dimensional case and beautifully finished engine (movement) set the standard for the idiosyncratic Horological Machines that have followed. The fiercely unconventional Horological Machines have explored themes as diverse as space and science fiction, aviation, supercars, the animal kingdom and architecture. Since then, the innovative nature of MB&F’s journey has resulted in no less than nine awards from the famous Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, including the ultimate prize: the “Aiguille d’Or”, which rewards the best watch of the year. This year, MB&F is offering stunning new creations
Special Project One
Special Project One (SP One) is the result of another wild idea that has sprung out of MB&F’s basket of dormant projects. Initially code-named “Three Circles”, the SP One movement is crafted around the three key elements of any mechanical watch – the barrel, the balance wheel, and the dial – each of which seems to float in mid-air. Thanks to the sapphire glass on both the front and back, these elements appear to defy gravity. However, it’s the thoughtful architecture of the movement that truly enhances this captivating levitation effect, creating a striking visual experience. The bridges are almost like magic, practically invisible. Most components are cleverly hidden beneath the three key elements, letting their beauty take centre stage. The fewer bridges, screws, and wheels, the better. In fact, trying to spot a screw from the front is like searching for a needle in a haystack, amplifying that stunning levitating effect.
Visually, the three elements have identical circumferences, adding complexity to the movement’s design. The single-barrel architecture is elegantly suspended, enhancing the levitation effect and presenting a genuine challenge for the movement designers. The flying balance wheel oscillates at 2 o’clock and captivates the wearer’s eyes like a flying saucer, levitating and dancing over the rest of the movement. In Max’s imaginative world, everything seems to float, and the dial perfectly follows suit. Tilted just right to highlight MB&F’s expertise in conical gearing, this feature is a tricky feat to pull off while keeping it reliable. Rarely seen in watchmaking, it adds a wonderfully subtle three-dimensional flair that’s as intriguing as it is discreet. This technically-complex-to-achieve architecture reveals a simple and unique structure that makes understanding how a mechanical watch functions surprisingly straightforward.
Surrounding this movement is what Max playfully dubs the “amphitheatre”: a beautifully bevelled flange that channels the grandeur of Greco-Roman theatres, spotlighting the stunning intricacies of the movement like a gladiator in the arena. Flip the SP One over to uncover the other side of its arena, showcasing the meticulous hand finishing and overall attention to detail typical of MB&F. Beyond the desire to surprise and take risks, it’s the meticulous attention to the movement that reveals the family ties. The complexity lies in maintaining finesse and elegance while preserving classic codes. All wheels are hand-angled, with prominent chatons, and the finish balance is subtle between satin, polished, and micro-blasted surfaces.
Beyond the unconventional construction of the movement and traditional hand-finishing, the pebble case design further sets the SP One apart. Despite being thin, this watch paradoxically boasts a three-dimensional presence. Imagine holding a perfectly smooth pebble, polished by years in a riverbed: that’s the feel of the SP One. Its 38mm case – sleek like a spaceship and bezel-free – features sapphire glass that seamlessly blends front and back with the case. This design gives the watch a captivating floating effect also emphasised by its cleverly crafted lugs. A closer look reveals that they’re not directly attached to the upper case; instead, they rise elegantly from the lower case, creating a subtle yet distinct gap between each hand-polished lug and the upper section.
Overall, the SP One is as smooth to the touch as it looks, inviting one to run one’s fingers over its curves. It’s like a tiny UFO landed on the wrist, blending unconventional design with an organic, tactile sensation. While the SP One is MB&F’s thinnest watch, it’s not about competing for the title of the slimmest watch in the world. Instead, it embodies a harmonious balance in design and proportions, prioritising elegance and artistry over mere thinness to achieve true equilibrium.
