Watches

Horological masterpieces from Jacob & Co.

In keeping with its tagline, “Inspired by the Impossible”, Jacob & Co. has debuted two stunning timepieces that push the boundaries of technical mastery and exquisite artistry – the World Is Yours Dual Time Zone and the Astronomia Revolution. Both timepieces are stunning in their horological excellence as well as in their aesthetics

World Is Yours Dual Time Zone
The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is a tribute to an Arabov family heirloom, inspired by a double time zone watch that Jacob Arabov received at as a boy from his father, Nison Arabov; the original spark that inspired every single Jacob & Co. timepiece including The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone.

Jacob Arabo and Benjamin Arabov decided that this new collection would be named The World Is Yours as a tribute to Mr. Nison Arabov, the man that gave them the True North in their life. A true north that is represented on The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone in the shape of a wind rose, serving as small seconds.

Two sub-dials caught between two engravings – one of Europe, the other of the Americas; the original timepiece had a two time zone complication. A dial that represents a map view of the world was a rare sight at the time, especially one depicting the West in the USSR.

The Dual Time Zone is the first timepiece from the new The World Is Yours collection. Because of its original inspiration, the first complication Jacob & Co. implemented is a double time zone with two sub-dials that sits inside a 43-mm rose gold case where everything is curved. Its bezel is stepped, rounded and very thin in order to offer the largest dial possible. It is followed by a large, highly domed sapphire crystal – a necessary feature as the dial itself is curved, like the Earth it represents. The height difference between its lower and highest points is an astonishing 3.7 mm. As a result, the hands are also curved. The crown is short, integrated into the case outline, rounded, polished and discreet.

On the dial, on either side of the Atlantic Ocean, three continents are represented: Northern, Central and Southern America to the west; Africa, Europe and the western most parts of Asia to the East, including the Arabian Peninsula. Each landmass is stamped and finely rendered in a rose gold finish. Mountains and depressions are highly realistic, emphasised further by the curvature of the dial.

The caseback, also of 18k rose gold and engraved, depicts the rest of the world – from Europe to Japan, depicting all of Africa and Asia. Against the skin, hidden from view from everyone, except the wearer.

The dial is a highly domed brass plate. The continents’ outlines are carved with a high precision laser and their surface stamped using a purpose-built, high-accuracy mould. All three sub-dials are carved into the dial plate. The entire piece is then covered in rose gold with a galvanic treatment. The oceans and seas are lacquered blue – entirely hand crafted. Roman and Arabic numerals, and the minute tracks are gold-stamped into place on top of the blue lacquer.

Powered by a new Jacob & Co. exclusive calibre, the timepiece indicates two time zones, complete with hours and minutes, vertically aligned on either side of a small seconds. Each time zone can be set at will using the crown, down to the minute. It is the only way countries with an unusual UTC time offset can display both their local time and another one.

Its small seconds hand is a rose wind with four main arms, one of which is painted red to act as a pointer. It symbolises the compass one needs to navigate the world. It is the one that helps us find our bearings, like the moral compass provided by M. Nison Arabov. Logically, it sits in the centre, at the highest point of the domed dial.

Astronomia Revolution
Astronomia Revolution is a limited edition of 18 pieces – six in rose gold, six in white gold and six in white gold with black DLC surface treatment. The case measures 47 mm in diameter and 27 mm high, dictated entirely by the requirements of the calibre – JCAM48B – and its functionalities.

Inspired by space, a personal passion of founder and chairman Jacob Arabo, Jacob & Co. has fitted a unique construction on the Astronomia Revolution’s base, located on top of the movement’s hidden parts and under the satellite trajectory. An array of 18 hexagonal mirrors mimics those on the James Webb Space Telescope’s gilded reflectors that capture light emitted at the beginning of time. Jacob & Co. crafted a miniaturised version of those reflectors to capture the hypnotising motion of the Astronomia Revolution in orbit above.

Each mirror is made of 18K red gold, highly polished and slightly tilted at a very precise angle. It is both a nod to space exploration and a tool designed to admire the satellites’ revolutions. Finally, a caseband made of transparent sapphire (under the openworked lugs as well), offers a 360-degree view of the stunning apparatus. Astronomia Revolution even has the most advanced of all second hands in the shape of a long arrow. Its tip revolves on its own axis in 15 seconds and is made of a single, large, pyramid-shaped ruby, showcasing Jacob & Co.’s gemmology expertise.

Astronomia Revolution takes the initial space inspiration behind Astronomia and elevates it to a new orbit with a completely redesigned, proprietary movement. Orbiting at the lightning fast speed of one full rotation per minute requires massive energy. For the first time, an Astronomia is fitted with two barrels of exceptional size. In order to control the massive flow running through calibre JCAM48B, Jacob & Co. has devised a next generation constant force device. Astronomia Revolution introduces a whip-based constant force patent-pending device of exceptional frequency.

Every 1/6th of a second, i.e., the frequency of the balance wheel, the gear train activates a hairspring. It then frees the whip, a star-shaped gear located nearest the fourth wheel. The whip acts as a buffer between the energy flow from the barrel and the tourbillons, which carry the balance wheel. Each time the whip is activated, it transmits the amount of energy needed by the tourbillon carriage for the next 1/6th of a second. The transmitted force is kept constant at an unheard-of frequency, a feature specific enough for Jacob & Co. to engrave “1/6′ regulation” on the satellite central pillar base.

This not only results in improved accuracy but with the triple-axis tourbillon, makes the timepiece a high-class chronometer. It is also the only solution to rein in the energy flow and to avoid undesired effects. Also, a smooth rotation of the entire platform and tourbillons demands a smooth energy flow. Without it, the entire movement would hack in a disgraceful manner. This fine energy regulation allowed Jacob & Co. to maintain an impressive 36-hour power reserve on a massively complex timepiece.

The flying tourbillon of the watch spins on two axes, around the first one in 1 minute, around the second one in 15 seconds. The latter is one of the highest speeds ever reached by a tourbillon carriage in watchmaking history. One minute also happens to be the speed of the movement rotation, and 15 seconds that of the arrow’s head. Since it moves along with the satellite platform to the rhythm of one rotation per minute, Astronomia Revolution is a bona fide triple-axis tourbillon.

As the rotating platform inside Astronomia Revolution comes full circle every minute, it is a de facto seconds hand. The long, slender steel arrow is the movement’s third, balancing arm. Its head is made of 950 platinum set with one large ruby, made by the same process as the ones found inside the movement. Shaped like a spear-head, or a sharp pyramid, it expresses the jewellery face of Jacob & Co.

Related Articles

Back to top button