Mesmerising Panthères from Cartier

The house of Cartier is one of the few maisons that has earned a firm reputation in both Haute Horlogerie and Haute Joaillerie; the marque’s offerings for women in 2017 reinforce its expertise in both. The iconic Panthère is back to mesmerise us in multiple styles, while unique pieces such as the Papyrus and Trait d’éclat leave us spellbound

Panthère de Cartier Watch
The Panthère de Cartier watch, described by the marque as “Jewellery first, timepiece second”, is instantly recognisable as Cartier. The Panthère watch, which was first unveiled by the maison in early 1980s, was immediately a firm favourite among both men and women. Soon considered a luxury icon, the watch adorned the wrists of famous personalities such as Pierce Brosnan and Tina Turner. It also had its moments on the silver screen including in the 1987 film “Wall Street”, where the character played by Charlie Sheen is seen wearing it.

The watch, which enjoyed a cult status, was discontinued by the brand in the 2000s. The revival of the collection by the marque has received enthusiastic approval by its fans. As is usual with the line, it is powered by a quartz movement and comes in two sizes – small (22 MM) and medium (27 MM) respectively. Both editions have the same features, such as the square case with screwed-down bezel and linked brick-lay bracelet with concealed folding clasp.

Available in 9 different variations of metals and finishes, two models in particular caught our eye and are sure to make the “lust-have” list of many fans. One is the Medium Model, White Gold, Brilliant-Cut Diamonds & Black Enamel Spots; and the other is the Medium Model, Pink Gold & Black Lacquer, which is a limited numbered edition of 30 pieces.

Papyrus watch
The art of Cartier permeates this unique watch that comprises an unusual ensemble of 32 emeralds weighing 38.20 carats. Inspired by the verdant pastel hue of the gemstones – reminiscent of foliage – the designers selected a papyrus motif, a favoured form in drawings from the Cartier Archives. They chose to creatively interpret the papyrus flower, a decorative motif typical of ancient Egypt, liberally redesigning the papyrus leaf into a broad form flaring outwards in a stylised and modern dynamic rendering.

The emeralds were paired two by two, ensuring an elegant arrangement. Almost 8 carats were shed in re-cutting to instil a perfect harmony of form and a uniform colouring: a lush, almost sparkling green with a hint of yellow. The lifelike appearance of the gemstones is enhanced by their apparent freedom to move; in the expert hands of the jeweller, they seem to rustle as the stalk of the papyrus sways in the breeze.

The dial, occupying a minuscule space at the centre of the composition, is a jewel in its own right. This masterful feat of watchmaking is framed by diamonds and accentuated by the two triangular-shaped diamonds that serve as hour markers at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock.

Trait d’éclat watch
This Cartier evening watch was inspired by a set of 15 rubies. The 15 rubies, with a total weight of 24.93 carats, exhibit a remarkably uniform colour: an intense deep red with a diamond-like sparkle partnered by the orangey-pink hue specific to Mozambican rubies.

It is a flash of fire, described in French as a “trait d’éclat”, that the master craftsmen of Cartier aimed to reproduce in this finished piece, and they have succeeded admirably. The rubies weave around the watch in a glittering ribbon accentuated with baguette-cut diamonds, curling around and caressing the dial that softly blends into the composition. Slipped into place on the wrist, the watch reveals the time with a dainty and feminine touch.

Bringing together two beloved Cartier themes – rubies and ribbons – the Trait d’éclat watch is a glittering accessory designed for the dawdling hours of the day, the dusk.

Ronde Louis Cartier XL flamed gold watch
Ronde Louis Cartier watch – a numbered limited edition of 30 pieces – pioneers a new technique in watchmaking: flamed gold, where Cartier has combined the luminosity of enamel and the precision of a miniature painting to create a breathtakingly beautiful dial. Flamed gold is the latest technique in a repertoire of Cartier crafts that extends to Etruscan granulation, enamel granulation, and filigree work.

The flamed gold technique is inspired by the method of bluing watch hands in a flame. It requires a perfect mastery of intense heat since the most precise temperatures are needed to elicit the colours: the hottest flame produces blue; the coolest beige. The pattern of the panther’s coat is engraved – or ‘brushed’ – onto the 18-carat-gold dial. The gold plate is heated in a flame to produce an initial colour, and returned to the flame as many times as necessary until the full palette of colours has been produced.

The outcome of the minute, delicate handiwork that commands staggering levels of concentration on the part of Cartier craftsmen is suitably impressive. The depth of a rich animal palette ranging from beige to brown is contrasted with blued apple-shaped hands. Cartier has chosen to pave the bezel of this exquisite timepiece in baguette-cut diamonds, a flash of fire that brilliantly illuminates the genius of the artwork. The creature is strikingly lifelike from the top of the ears to the tip of the nose.

Panthère Royale watch
By turns playful, stately, mischievous or feral, the Cartier panther is at ease in every role and absolutely dominates in its new avatar – the Panthère Royale. The Panthère Royale watch reigns supreme with a dial that twinkles with brilliant-cut diamonds. Set in a three-dimensional sculpture, this miniature bas-relief recalls one of the creature’s earliest appearances on a sapphire brooch created for the Duchess of Windsor in 1949.

Despite the complexity of forms and proportions at play, the work of the jeweller seduces with astonishing delicacy. Diamonds conjure illusions of depth and dimension from the bezel to the glittering lace of the motif, and the wild cat is ablaze with the fire of diamonds. The sheen of her coat spotted with lacquer, the Cartier panther dazzles as the fierce guardian of precious time.

Panthère Joueuse watch
The panther, the iconic animal of the Cartier menagerie, is in a playful mood in this new complication watch by the maison. In a dramatic scene powered by a new complication, the mischievous creature appears to pounce from the dial in pursuit of a ball. The calibre moves as one with the body of the panther to bring this miniature theatre to life. The minutes are indicated by the head and paw of the figure, while the hours are marked by the ball.

Exhibiting exquisite craftsmanship in a display of diamonds, black lacquer and emeralds, Cartier brings the panther to life with a new movement. The workshops have joined forces to channel the jewellery expertise of the maison and its flair for rendering these strikingly lifelike three-dimensional creatures. The watch is transfigured by the presence of the panther and the hidden mechanism that marks the passage of time in a never-ending game.