Steel Wheels in titanium rolls out from De Bethune
De Bethune launched the DB28XP Steel Wheels – a limited edition of 25 pieces only – in which the architecture and technicality of the DB28 Steel Wheels movement is revealed in the DB28XP’s extra-flat titanium case
The DB28 Steel Wheels came to be in 2018 with the idea of opening the dial to reveal the contemporary architecture of its movement. Recognisable by its delta-shaped bridge and its moon at 6 o’clock, the DB28 Steel Wheels fascinates with a multitude of different forms. De Bethune has already opened a chapter in exploring the realm of the ultra-thin Universe in 2020 with the launch of the DB28XP to celebrate 10 years of intense work and research, of a mechanical and aesthetic quest.
The new DB28XP Steel Wheels is a symbiosis between the thinness of the case, the components, the movement and the finishing – all of which resonate with each other in a spirit of great simplicity. Cut from titanium, the watch reveals an architectural fusion of space, time and light. By playing with light and shadow, this dial adds depth and offers a more architectural and dynamic result.
The distinctive architecture of Calibre 2115v11 is beautifully highlighted by the decision to trim down the mechanism, notably by openworking the barrels and ratchet wheels, as well as cutting out the heart of the central delta-shaped bridge. The latter is adorned with Microlight decoration, developed by De Bethune. The entire movement thus creates the impression of levitating.
The ratcheted chapter ring inspired by gear-wheel toothing surrounds 12 polished and blued spheres marking the hours and discreetly recall De Bethune’s signature. The hours and minutes hands in the centre are made of blued titanium. The hand-wound movement features De Bethune’s balance wheel, visible through the dial thanks to an opening at 6 o’clock. Made of titanium, it is equipped with small white gold weights placed on the outside to give remarkable qualities of inertia, reliability and regulating ability.
The balance spring – a minute, extremely fine spring considered to be the soul of the mechanical watch – maintains its true centre of gravity with a flat terminal curve affixed to the outside of the balance-spring. Differences in the thickness of the blade add to the almost perfect precision of its concentric development. Among its many advantages are lower height, better adjustment of concentricity, finer adjustment of the racquet, and no need for pins. The curve’s shape even acts as a shock absorber in case of impact. Finally, the material’s internal structure remains intact since it has been neither stressed nor bent. De Bethune has succeeded in increasing the power reserve by 20 percent, bringing it to a total of 6 days.
Equally visible – and geometrically positioned in relation to the calibre’s plate – is the exclusive triple shock absorption system designed to protect the whole assembly. The “triple pare-chute” or triple shock absorber effectively absorbs and dampens violent shocks with springs instead of screws mounted on perfectly polished axes.
Like all the models in this collection, the DB28 Steel Wheels still surprises observers by the light feel of its case, entirely crafted in titanium, and by the presence of De Bethune’s patented floating-lug system adjusting to wrist size and movements. A more pronounced curvature, flowing with the lines of the wrist. The plate’s Microlight finish is echoed along the sides of the case band, rendered all the more meticulously in the absence of simple geometric forms. The finishing touch is an alligator strap with a titanium buckle, which also contributes to the practicality and everyday wearability of this very special timepiece.
