Watches

MB&F debuts an automotive-inspired Horological Machine

MB&F’s connection to cars runs deep, with its many automotive-inspired iterations instantly recognisable by the speedometer-style display on the side of the case that recalls the daring and futuristic design of the 1970s. The latest of these is the HM8 Mark 2, the most technologically evolved model to date, available in two versions – one of which is a limited edition

MB&F’s Founder Maximilian Büsser, who spent most of his childhood dreaming about becoming a car designer, found inspiration in a crazy design by Amida, called the Amida Digitrend, a watch that was unveiled in 1976. Working on a similar idea, MB&F employed a sapphire prism that would allow the jumping hours and sweeping minutes to be indicated vertically, when they were actually flat as a pancake on top of the movement. The time was indicated in a window that resembled an old-style speedometer on the front of the case that could also be easily viewed while driving, no less. Unlike the Amida, with its discs next to each other, the MB&F HM design features discs that are one on top of the other, maximising the size of the digits and therefore the legibility.

After numerous iterations, came the HM8 ‘Can-Am’ with a sapphire crystal that also allowed a view on the spinning rotor. It was this movement, based on a Girard-Perregaux calibre, that is also providing the base for the brand-new HM8 Mark 2. The HM8 took its design cues from Can-Am cars (hence the nickname) from the famous Canadian American Racing Championship. The cars’ unusual design and distinctive roll bars became the inspiration for the watch’s two titanium roll bars. The HM8 Mark 2, on the other hand, finds inspiration in different sources, such as the iconic Porsche 918 Spyder for the shape of the body, and the Zagato double bubble for the sapphire crystal.

The HM5 and HM8 Mark 2 are built from an independent water-resistant chassis to which the body panels of the watch are added, while the HMX and HM8 favoured a monobloc construction. For the new HM8 Mark 2, this coachwork comes in a choice of white or British racing green CarbonMacrolon that has a matt finish on the top and a high polish on the sides. The white version is paired with a green CVD rotor and light green minute markers, while the British racing green version comes with a red gold rotor and balance wheel and turquoise minute markers and is limited to 33 pieces.

Developed specifically for MB&F, CarbonMacrolon is a composite material composed of a polymer matrix injected with carbon nanotubes, which add strength and rigidity. Carbon nanotubes offer superior tensile strength and stiffness than traditional carbon fibre reinforcing. MB&F’s CarbonMacrolon is a solid material that is hard and can be coloured, polished, bead-blasted, lacquered, satin-finished. Additionally, it weighs eight times less than steel, making it extremely versatile and interesting from both a technical and design point of view.

Like any super- or hyper-car, a lot of the technology inside the HM8 Mark 2 is not visually obvious, starting with the titanium chassis, which is extremely complicated to mill. Even in stainless steel, it would have been extremely complex to make, but the hardness of this alloy really put MB&F’s technicians to the test. The same is true of the CarbonMacrolon body panels, which due to the small production quantities, could only be milled from a block, adding another layer of complexity to the watch’s coachwork.

A long line of MB&F timepieces has pushed the limits of what is physically possible in terms of sapphire crystal production, and the HM8 Mark 2 is no exception. The creation of this double-curved sapphire has reached a complexity that is 30 to 40 times more expensive than a dome sapphire. Only one supplier agreed to take on the challenge. During the many hours required to produce each sapphire crystal, the risk of breakage is incredibly high. Once safely completed and fitted into the timepiece, however, it is just as robust as the sapphire crystal on any sports watch.

And last, but not least, the battle axe rotor that powers the movement is incredibly complex to make as one of the 22-carat gold blades is only two-tenths of a millimetre thick. It cannot possibly be machined so it had to be stamped, with the engraving already incorporated into the stamp.

Not under the hood, but equally hidden, is a brand-new type of crown that has a sort of “double de-clutch” system, to coin an automobile term. It works by pushing the crown in and turning it three-quarters of a turn to release it. This has the advantage of gaining space and providing additional security to the system, which is a genuine advantage for a sports watch.

The HM8 Mark 2 takes everything that MB&F fans have loved in this automotive series over the last 10+ years and has made it more technical, more legible, more eye-catching, and easier to wear. But more than that, it is a reminder that, wherever you are in life, it is never too late to follow your dreams.

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